Points of Interest in the Wet-Dry Routes Chapter Area
Points of Interest on the Wet/Dry chapter area in the vicinity of present-day Pawnee, Edwards, and Ford Counties, Kansas. Here the Santa Fe Trail is represented by five separate routes: The Wet Route, three different branches of the Dry Route, and the Fort Larned Military Road.
POINTS ALONG THE WET ROUTE
Ash Creek Crossing —This is the site that was written about by Susan Shelby Magoffin and recorded in the book, Down the Santa Fe Trail and into Mexico. On July 4, 1846, Susan carved her name into the soft rock on Pawnee Rock while her husband and servant stood watch for Indians. The rest of the party continued on down the Trail. Susan’s diary entry for that day details what happened as they caught up with the group at Ash Creek Crossing.
"The wagons being some distance ahead we rode on quite briskly to overtake them. In an hour's time we had driven some six miles, and at Ash creek we came up with them. No water in the creek and the crossing pretty good only a tolerable steep bank on the first side of it, all but two had passed over, and as these were not up we drove on ahead of them to cross first. The bank though a little steep was smooth and there could be no difficulty in riding down it. However, we had made up our minds always to walk down such places in case of accident, and before we got to it mi alma hallowed "woe" as he always does when he wishes to stop, but as there was no motion made by the driver to that effect, he repeated it several times and with much vehemence. We had now reached the very verge of the cliff and seeing it a good way and apparently less dangerous than jumping out as we were he said "go on." The word was scarcely from his lips, ere we were whirled completely over with a perfect crash. One to see the wreck of that carriage now with the top and sides entirely broken to pieces, could never believe that people had come out of it alive. But strange, wonderful to say, we are almost entirely unhurt! I was considerably stunned at first and could not stand on my feet. Mi alma forgetting hmself and entirely enlisted for my safety carried me in his arms to the shade tree, almost entirely without my knowledge, and rubing my face and hands with whiskey soon brought me entire to myself. My back and side are a little hurt, but is very small compared with what it might have been. Mi alma has his left hip and arm on which he fell both bruised and strained, but not seriously. Dear creature 'twas for me he received this, for had he not caught me in his arms as we fell he could have saved himself entirely. And then I should perhaps have been killed or much crushed for the top fell over me, and it was only his hands that kept it off of me. It is better as it is, for we can sympathise more fully with each other."
Sibley’s Camp — This campsite is located at 502 West 2nd Street in modern-day Larned, Kansas. In 1995, this historic piece of property was purchased by Wet/Dry Routes Chapter members David Clapsaddle, Bob Rein, and Mildon Yeager. David Clapsaddle has explained that the site has been identified as the place where the United States Survey team camped on the Santa Fe Trail Survey Expedition on August 31, 1825. George Sibley, one of the survey commissioners, wrote in his September 1, 1825 diary entry:
"Yesterday I turned off from the direct course and struck the Arkansas at the mouth of this River, and then coursed it up about a Mile to the fording place near which we are now encamped, which is just at the foot of a high rocky Hill. The path leading up from the mouth to the ford passes between the Pawnee and some Cliffs of Soft Rock, upon the smooth faces of which are cut the name of many Persons, who have at different times passed this way to and from New Mexico. Some Indian Marks are also to be seen on these Rocks."
After purchasing the property, the owners made a number of improvements including the removal of building, debris, and trees. Several programs have taken place at the campsite, including a program held in conjunction with the 175th Anniversary of the Santa Fe Trail, Rendezvous meetings and chapter events. A brochure about the historical significance of the property has been distributed, and markers have been placed at the site.
Pawnee Fork Crossing — The Wet Route crossing of the Pawnee Fork is located near the U.S. Highway 56 bridge crossing Pawnee River. Railroad and highway construction have long since destroyed the historical integrity of the site, but its steep banks are yet reminiscent of the difficulties associated with the crossing. This was one of the most hazardous fords on the entire length of the Santa Fe Trail. The east bank was described as being very steep and as being between twenty to thirty feet above the water. While the west bank wasn’t as steep, it still required added teams and/or men to help pull the wagons up. A few of the other problems encountered at this crossing were overturned wagons, which would require everything being unpacked, dried out and then repacked, and the rapid flood waters.
Sibley’s Ridge — After leaving their campsite of August 31, 1825, the Survey party continued west following the north bank of the Arkansas River. Approximately 9 miles west of present-day Larned, George Sibley wrote in his journal that his party came to a high ridge. The wagons continued around the point, staying about ½ mile north of the Arkansas River. However, Sibley left the party and rode to the top of the ridge. From there he could follow the course of the Pawnee River for a great distance by the fringe of trees that ran along its banks. The Wet/Dry Routes Chapter dedicated a marker at this site in 1992.
Coon Creek Crossing — A marker placed by the Wet/Dry Route at this site is located on the north side of the highway, east of a bridge. This bridge identifies the location of Coon Creek Crossing, which is now replicated by the bridge. Coon Creek, which meandered through the area, could be a troublesome crossing point, and was in an area of considerable hostile Indian activity.
Plain Camp — Past the Coon Creek Bridge 4 miles on U.S. 56 is a Wet/Dry Routes Chapter marker. Approximately ½ mile south of this marker was the location of Plain Camp, which was the first of several campsites listed in an itinerary of the Wet Route by Charles Folsom in 1842. Conjecture is that the campgrounds were so named because it had no identify features.
Point of Inception/Lower Crossing — Located in Ford County, this is the site where the Lower Crossing departed the Wet Route of the Santa Fe Trail to ford Mulberry creek and continue toward Santa Fe on what was known as the Cimarron Route.
Jackson’s Island — This so-called island was a peninsula covered with a large stand of timber on the south side of the river. This well known campsite was the 1843 scene of a confrontation where Capt. Philip St. George Cooke’s dragoons disarmed the free booter force of Col. Jacob Snively who had come north from the Republic of Texas to raid Mexican Caravans on the Santa Fe Trail.
Fort Dodge — Established as a U.S. Army post in April, 1865, today it functions as the Kansas Soldiers Home
Fort Mann*— Fort Mann was established as a repair depot for army vehicles in 1847.
Fort Atkinson* — Fort Atkinson was established as a U.S. Army post in 1850. It was originally called New Post.
The Caches* — The Caches was a hiding place for trade good stored by the Baird/Chambers party in 1823. The site was also the original western junction of the Wet and Dry Routes and a campsite on Folsom’s table of distances. Before 1859 the Dry Route branched from the Wet Route southwest of Pawnee Fork crossing to pursue an upland course to the Caches where it merged with the Wet Route. Later, it merged with the Wet Route 10 miles east of the Caches.
*Sites marked with an * are in the area of the Dodge City/Fort Dodge/Cimarron chapter. But since they were original part of the Wet and/or Dry Routes of the Santa Fe Trail and have been marked cooperatively, they are listed here.
POINTS ALONG THE DRY ROUTE
Pawnee Fork Crossing (Dry Route) — Another crossing of the Pawnee Fork, this one on the Dry Route, is located on the west edge of Larned State Hospital grounds. This crossing can still be seen and crossed by means of a small bridge. Because the Dry Route crossing on Pawnee Fork was also difficult at times, a campsite developed for travelers to wait for ideal crossing conditions. A mail and stage station was located at this crossing in 1859, and this led to the establishment of Fort Larned.
Rock Hollow — A campsite named for a nearby outcropping of sandstone.
Big Coon Creek Crossing —This crossing was the site of a stage station established in 1863. Following the abandonment of the stage station in 1867, the U.S. Army occupied it briefly as an outpost known as Fort Coon. Cutdowns can be seen on both sides of the creek. Historically, this stream was called Big Coon Creek. It is actually a tributary of Coon Creek and is presently labeled Little Coon Creek
Dinner Station — A campsite on the stage company’s route. It was about 8 miles from Big Coon Crossing and Arroyo Blanco. By conjecture, the site was used to prepare meals for stage passengers
Arroyo Blanco — A gully, streaked with alkali deposits, is the source of this campsite’s name. Arroyo Blanco in Spanish means “White Ravine.”
Little Coon Creek Crossing — Historically known as Little Coon Creek, this stream is part of the main channel of what is today labeled Big Coon Creek. Multiple ruts are found in this area. Little Coon Creek Crossing was used on the Post-1859 Dry Route and a campsite on the stage company’s route.
SITES ON THE FORT LARNED MILITARY ROAD
Santa Fe Trail Center — The Santa Fe Trail Center is a nonprofit regional museum telling the story of the geographic area once known as the Santa Fe Trail. This transportation route blended Indian, Spanish, and American cultures. It is located two miles west of Larned, Kansas on K-156 and is open daily, 9AM to 5 PM, closed Mondays Labor Day through Memorial Day, and closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day. Admission is charged.
Fort Larned National Historic Site — This site, which is located just west of present day Larned, KS, was established in 1859 as a base of military operations against hostile Indians of the Central Plains, to protect traffic along the Santa Fe Trail and as an agency for the administration of the Central Plains Indians by the Bureau of Indian Affairs under the terms of the Fort Wise Treaty of 1861. With nine restored buildings, it survives as one of the best examples of Indian Wars period forts. Most of the buildings, including the barracks, commissary, and officers quarters, are furnished to their original appearance. In August of 1964, Fort Larned became a national historic site and a unit of the National Park System. Buildings have been extensively restored, and one was turned into a museum and gift shop. The oldest building, the blockhouse (which had been torn down years ago) was rebuilt - in part with stones from the original building.
National Park Service Ruts — Located southwest of Fort Larned, this set of ruts is administered by the Fort Larned NHS.
SITES ON THE FORT HAYS - FORT DODGE ROAD
As the Union Pacific Railway Company, Eastern Division, expanded further to the west, successive sections of the Santa Fe Trail were lopped off. As the railroad moved west, towns sprang up to at various locations. In the summer of 1866, the railroad had reached Junction City; and in the following summer the tracks pushed west to Fort Harker. By October 1867, the railroad had pushed westward to Hays City. The newly organized town only one-half mile from Fort Hays became at once the Union Pacific railhead and the eastern terminus of the Santa Fe Trail. Thus was born the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road, which ran seventy-five miles southwest to strike the established route of the Santa Fe Trail at Fort Dodge.
Fort Hays — Originally called Fort Fletcher, the fort was established in 1865 to protect military roads and the Smoky Hill Trail, defend construction gangs on the Union Pacific Railway and guard the movement of mails. The fort served as a major supply depot for other Army posts in western and southern Kansas. Exhibits at the fort include weapons, historic toys, household furnishings, and archeological artifacts.
It is located on U.S. Highway 183 Alternate south of Interstate 70. Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 1 to 5 p.m. Sunday and Monday. Open every day except Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's.
Sawlog Creek Crossing — This crossing on the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road was the site of a trading ranch owned by a man named Boyd in 1868. There are dugout remains on the south bank of the creek and cutdowns area located on both sides of the stream.
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Art Source: The painting featured at the top of this page was done by artist and SFTA member Doug Holdread. Visit Doug's Website
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